Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Kullu Valley and Mcleod Ganj

So we finally managed to get out of Delhi on an overnight bus to Bhuntar in the Kullu valley. Well it was an 16hr overnight bus ride so naturally it was pretty crap. I didn't want to have to get out to go to the toilet so I didn't really eat or drink and as a result was not feeling the best the next day. Bit of a stupid idea in hindsight. The scenery was amazing though. I remember waking up at one point at around 2am and looking out to see the valley below me, with low whispy clouds and studded with house lights, then looking up to half clouded starlit sky above me... it was like there was sky above and below! Such a beautiful sight!

We arrived in Bhuntar in the early morning and organised a jeep to take us to Manikaran where we planned on visiting the Sikh temple and bathing in some hot springs, as suggested to us by our Sikh travel agent. We shared the jeep with another traveller we picked up along the way, the French and dreadlocked (and very amusing) Rashid, as well as a couple of young Indian guys. Well, the jeep ride was interesting. I was at times not very impressed with the driver's apparent lack of focus and concern whilst speeding around corners on the edge of a cliff, but we ended up getting to our destination in one piece. There was a lot of smoking of a particular substance coming from the front seat and as a result, things accidentally got very hysterically funny for a good portion of the drive. Enough said.

Manikaran was beautiful. Situated in the Kullu valley, surrounded by soaring mountains, with the raging Parvati river running through it. Very quiet little village and lovely people. Unfortunately I started feeling very unwell with a burning stomach and fever whenever I ate. I slept A LOT. I went to the only 'doctor' in town, an ayurvedic healer who diagnosed me with a stomach infection and gave me a mountain of herbal medicine to take.
"You crazy girl!" Rashid tells me, in a very strong French accent. He doesn't trust the herbal medicine. "For me, it is not possible!"
I'm starting to feel better today but it's been suggested that it's perhaps a stomach ulcer rather than an infection.

We left Manikaran and Rashid and took another overnight bus to Mcleod Ganj. The bus was even worse than the first one, I was unable to sleep as the driver sped around constant corners. I had to hold tight onto my arm rest in order to remain in my seat! Luckily it was only 8 hours.

We arrived in Mcleod Ganj before sunrise. Here is the home of the Tibet Government in Exile and also a majority of Tibetan refugees. It was lovely sitting outside watching the sunrise and the Tibetan people walking passed with their prayer beads and their smiling faces. They are such a lovely people. Mcleod Ganj itself is beautiful too, up in the mountains. It rains a lot but it is a beautiful cool temperature. As I write this I'm watching a misty rain cloud descend over the mountain in front of me. There are also big hairy monkeys that climb through the town on electrical wires and clamber over the guesthouse which are very amusing to watch. There is yoga, massage, great food, and a small 'cinema'. I'm already in love with the Tibetan steamed Aloo Momos which are like dumplings filled with mashed potato. Oh how I'd been craving mashed potato! I can buy a plate of about 5-6 momos for about 20c. I looooove this town. I'm going to stay here for a bit to fully recover before continuing on my travels!

Amiee x

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